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Hi , awesome video. I would like to make an induction manifold using silicone rubber to form the complex bends. What I had in mind was to make 6 silicone rubber sausages at 18 inches (457mm) long and 1.29921 inches (33mm) diameter with a heavy gauge fencing wire in the centre so that when removed from the tubing and adapted to fit the manifold it will retain the curves and bends required ready for the fibre glass split mold. The second part I’m guessing is to remove the silicone rubber from the split mold and reassemble and fill with Liquid Metal then remove the split mold and layer up with carbon fibre and then after curing melt the liquid metal out of the carbon fibre. Would love to see this process and of course would love any changes and input. Regards Noel

You incorporated those vertical shots well 😂

If moisture is the because of the bubbles, why not just use a desiccant. And mix immediately???

Why wait overnight before mixing????

SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO What about gundoms that are 50-250 dollers !

Awesome! Thank you for the beeswax tip for mold release. Works great. I already had a ton of it around my shop which I use to finish some wood surfaces for furniture. I never thought to use it for mold release. I was wondering if mineral oil works too? Do you know?

What about casting plaster and concrete tho?

how bout link to rubber products

I wish I could get some input on a mold I would LOVE to have. I have tried Etsy for custom molds and haven’t found anyone willing to do it.

I have a old watch pressure tester, will that do the job and atleast help a little with getting the gas out?

Paraffin wax is toxic when smokes! I use pure beeswax and some coconut oil

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This is awesome, gives nostalgic vibes.

Hey man, thanks for making awesome videos. I just found your channel and boy, I love finding people passionate about what they make!

Wow! Thankyou

great work! thank you for sharing. would it be possible to also cast silicone hollow sculptures with this method? (modified)

man, this is pretty cool

+1 в карму!!!

Thanks a lot! you are a very nice and gentle !

Wow, that echo! I never knew!!

I owned a MAKO machine 40 years ago , and could not find any inforrmation about it. same machine much smaller wat makes puppets of plaster of paris. it has gears and one handle to turn both axis. So I found your video and think making one myself instead of looking for something long ago for google excisted. thank you very much

Nice! What materials are you using? I recently tried resin casting but ran into a huge issue with curing. The silicone I wanted to make the mold out of wouldn't harden around the print. I ended up sealing the print with a generous amount of varnish which helped but the mold was not smooth at all and in some harder-to-varnish areas, still sticky. The silicone was curing 90 minutes but the epoxy resin took almost 2 days and remained flexible on long, slim details

Great info, I decided to have a crack at molding some stuff. Then thought i better have a little look around on here before just going for it with no experience. This is really helpful. Good video, thank you

Is it safe to use a vac chamber pot in a normal room if Im only using it for silicone rubbers?

Sir, I thank you so much for this video, it brings me a great level of joy, as I wish to make this someday.

watching this just now and the 500 Subs was sooo cute! way to go!

for some reason i just really love 2 piece cut molds

This is fantastic. Thank you for sharing, Robert!

Over time the mold will come apart...I have a quite good technice for 2 parters...you just need the cheap polymer clay which never becames solid, and lego...a lots of lego (apart from the basic modelling sculpting tools you probably have. Flat out plaster, make your modell sink into it. work out that there is no undercuts, make a few bumps, but make them like pushing from one side (but try all not to have the same orientation), desing the place where you want to pour in the resin and build small half pipes out of clay from the figurines until the edge(what will be the top), and make it wide so you can have a nice cone for casting. Build a lego frame around the whole thing(while still be on top of the clay, so you need to push the lego frame into the clay, build it up so high that you will be over the figurine if you pour silicone. Make sure use a little clay to seal all the opening between the bricks, make sure that the casting pipes are reaching the lego frame. (For bonus point spray the whole thing with silicone spray. Pour the silicone and wait for hardening. Remove the clay, but do not open the frane....now put the clay back inot the pipes, because you need them and build them up so they will froma full pipe. Build the frame up so that you can pour silcione here as well. spray silcioen spray on tjhe figurines, try to dry up the excess with a earbud. Then try to spread talcum all over the silicon mold surface without touching the figurines. Cast silicone After it hardenes you can remove the frame and getting out the plaster and using that as a strating point the two half should come apart without using a sclapel, and you will end up with two parts which can only fit together in one certain way... Also you need some(a pair) flat wood/or hard material and good clamps/strong rubber bands, whatever. Assemble, and pour the resin (YES there is no way to perfectly fit the two sides, so there will be leak, keep it in mind)

You're a gift good sir.

Awesome job sir! I just discovered vacuum casting today, I have never heard of it and the DIY CHAMBER TO TAKE OUT THE BUBBLES IS BRILLIANT! And I can build one like you did instead of importing one. And worrying about a blow out or a slurp out. I WAS SHOCK HOW THERE WERE NO PARTING LINES, IT REALLY LOOKED LIKE INJECTION MOLDED PARTS.

very nice work. but since i'm not an artist i don't think i can do this

This video is pure caviar. I will keep it safe so I can see it from time to time. Thank you Robert

I'm sure someone else has mentioned this over the past 2 years, but I bet you could change the infill on the print to get easier break points on the sculpt when you're splitting the mold open. The print itself would probably need some gentler handling, but adding in a weaker infill on 10-15 layers where the ankles are could have saved you quite a bit of energy & fussing. It's not easy to do in the slicing software, but certainly a possibility for more complex projects.

do you make molds to order and do you already have some ready-made ones for candles 3d

When spraying or brush painting on plastic it does help to let it dry for a few hours before scratching it or testing adhesion. It will always peel when wet. Let it cure and it would prob be fine, especially the spray made for plastics.

You are awesome!!! Thanks for a great channel 🙏🏽👏🏽👏🏽👍🏽

Is this the same for silicone rubber as well?

thank u so much, i've being spending days to understand how to do this 3D other elaborated videos were so complicated, simple, clear, right to the point! love your video !!

Whats that tool i use when filling the holes with wax?

Hello. Congratulations for your work. What kind of resin do you use ? Thank you

How can I email Robert Tolone please. Thank you

tq sir

You’re art is beautiful and full of whimsy. I just bought a 5 gal pressure pot because of you.

I have fesso and have no idea what i bought it for . Lol

Cant you use rubbing alcohol

I e seen ppl use cornstarch but idk how that works

Just temembered that i need a pressure pot

Omg! This just made me more crazy! I buy my resin online ! I had no idea i need to ask the manufacture of the resin which one they recommend

Such a lot of effort. First make formwork. Then cast a mold. Then cut a mold. And only then cast a model. However it is not finished yet and you need polish them... Even though there are lack of some details. But as you said in 1st part those original models were just 3d printed.